It’s not the first time a Copenhagen restaurant has won the most coveted gong at the World’s 50 Best Restaurants Awards, but this time it was Rasmus Kofoed’s Geranium that took the crown from Rene Redzepi’s Noma.
Geranium took home the number one award on the 2022 list, announced at a star-studded ceremony in London attended by many of the nominated restaurant teams as well as many previous winners for the first time since before the pandemic.
Kofoed’s restaurant is in the rather curious setting of Copenhagen’s Parken, the football stadium that is home to the Danish national football team. It’s more quaint than it looks – located on the eighth floor, the dining room is all light wood and cream-colored walls, and is flooded with light from the huge windows. These windows stretch out over the park below, to the copper rooftops of the city skyline.
In 2022, Kofoed and the team decided to revamp the restaurant and the menu they served here. Chefs no longer use meat in their dishes, although seafood is still in the spotlight. “The menu is a reflection of me, who I am and how I’m growing as a chef and as a human being,” Kofoed said on Instagram at the time. “I haven’t eaten meat for five years at home, so not using meat on the new menu was a logical decision and a natural progression for Geranium.”
Meals consist of 22 tasting-style dishes and change with the seasons. The menu can include artfully twisted salted herring with seaweed and dill stalks or ridiculously pretty winter vegetables with Brussels sprouts and blooming leeks. The 2022 menu costs DKK4,200 (about £365), and there are also options to add a range of wine pairings or soft drinks.
Geranium’s first entry on the World’s 50 Best list was in 2013, the same year it received two Michelin stars. The team earned a third Michelin star in 2016, making it the first Danish restaurant to reach the maximum star rating.
Copenhagen neighbor Noma, the winner of the previous year’s list, has been moved to the ‘Best of the Best’ section – a subset of restaurants that previously placed first and are therefore no longer eligible to win again. Other restaurants on the ‘best of the best’ list include Osteria Francescana, run by Massimo Bottura, who was interviewing his industry friends on the red carpet during the London awards.
Central in Lima, Peru, ranked just behind Geranium at number two, making it the continental winner for Best Restaurant in South America, while Disfrutar in Barcelona rounded out the top three.
As for where Rasmus Kofoed likes to eat when not at Geranium Pass – he tipped Koan in Copenhagen as the best meal he’s had recently while chatting with Conde Nast Traveler on the red carpet. “It was Korean-inspired,” he said. “It was full of new flavors that I had never discovered before.”